Wining & Dining

WINING & DINING

LATE NIGHT LONDON

If you´ve fallen into the Spanish custom of eating late and if you´re going to London on buisiness or pleasure here are a number of late night eateries to consider.

No competition here - the West End is the place for late-night diners. But there are still only a handful of choices outside the clubs.

Bar Italia (22 Frith Street, W1) is a Soho institution and 24-hour opening (Mon-Sat) means it gets packed with after-hours crowds in need of strong coffee or a snack.
Cafe Boheme (13 Old Compton Street, W1) if you want something more filling, serves food until 2.30am, Mon-Sat (drinks until 2.45am). It´s bistro staples - duck confit, steak, salads - are popular with locals in the restaurant and pub trade. ´Many of our regulars work late and then come here for dinner,´ says manager Tracy Batchelor.
1997 (19 Wardour Street, W1) serves Chinese food and takeaways until 4am (Mon-Sun), and is usually a bit rowdy.
Vingt Quatre (325 Fulham Road, SW10). is the only truly 24-hour restaurant near the West End. It only stops serving food to clean its kitchens (7am-8am) and from Thursday to Saturday it does a roaring trade serving steaks, fishcakes and comfort snacks to clubbers. But manager Dragona Simakovic says they also get trade from returning travellers. ´They´ve just landed at the airport and we´re the only restaurant where they can get a meal.´ Staff take it in turn to work nights. ´It can be tough,´ says Simakovic, ´But it´s social and sometimes it feels like we´ve been for an evening out and got paid for it.´ She says there´s the occasional disorderly diner, but not as often as you´d think.
Tinseltown (44-46 St John Street, EC1), is the place to head to near the city which attracts most of its trade when the Clerkenwell clubs empty and serves Italian, Indian and English dishes around the clock (Mon-Sun).
Beigel Bake at 159 Brick Lane, E1. is open 24 hours when it first started round-the-clock opening 15 years ago and now serves ´anyone and everyone´ according to co-owner Amnon Cohen. ´Policemen, clubbers and the local Bengali community all come here.´ Filled bagels start at 55p.

SPANISH IN PARIS

Fancy a little ´ Spanish home cooking´ when in Paris? Take a note of these two recommended restaurants.
Auberge de Jarente 7 rue de Jarente. 4e. Tel: 01 42 77 49 35, closed Sun & Mon.
Located on a charming side street not far from the place des Vosges, this popular Basque establishment has a warm, inviting interior, with exposed stone, tiny bar, downstairs cellar and chisteras, the wicker hand scoops used in pelota, hanging beside leather botas on mustard-coloured walls. The friendly and considerate service and nice selection of well priced lesser-known regional wines, gives it the relaxed feel of an authentic provincial restaurant.
From the selection of entrees, try the fricassee of whole baby calamari with thick slices of spicy chorizo sausage displayed in a piping hot earth terrine, and the piperade de Saint Jean - essentially scrambled eggs served with red peppers, tomato, onions and ham.
The immense cassoulet with confit de canard, porc and saucisson will satisfy the most ravenous of appetites.
To finish, try the freshly made, agreeably moist gateau Basque.
Caves St Gilles 4 rue St Gilles. 3e. Tel: 01 48 87 22 62, no credit cards.
Tucked away in a lovely part of the Marais, this is just the place to linger over a long, hearty meal with the family or a few drinks and tapas with friends, especially at night when its appealingly lit interior attracts an international crowd. Stepping into this cheerful corner establishment, which boasts a small but sunny pavement terrace, makes you feel as though youÕve crossed the border into Spain.
Bright tiles, a tapas-loaded bar, Spanish staff, and a patron glancing through El Pais - all set the mood for a casual and filling lunch in a bustling yet welcoming environment. The food is fresh, portions large, prices are low, and classic standbys like tortilla and pata negra certainly make the grade.